"I am the worst man you will ever meet. . . . but I am the happiest."

A little over a month left of my time in China. It has been fast and slow all at the same time. As it gets closer and closer to the end it becomes harder and harder to admit I am not coming back next year--especially to my students. (I am convinced my boss gave me the best students these last nine weeks in an attempt to convince me to return next fall).

In little ways I have conquered China. It no longer intimidates me. China is not a complete mystery anymore and I am thankful for this. I have learned a little about a new place and realized, except for China’s unique eccentricities that make it CHINA, it is still a place. A place full of people who have the same needs and wants as me.

Except for some massive loans I have to figure out, it would not be unheard of if I came back next year. However, that is the known option, the easy option, the comfortable option. I would know what to expect. My future looks a lot like it did last summer: unknown. So just like last summer I know I have to try.

I have to try out many things. There are many possibilities. To write, to sing, to swim, to bake, to work for a non-profit, to look at jobs across the U.S. The next year will be a year of exploration. If something sticks, it sticks. If not there is always the world. God knows I will try until the day I die to see as much of it as I can. Thus, after China, I will be in the land of unknown and will not return to China. . . . at least not for the next year.

All right enough of the inner/outer(?) monologue. This post is to tell of two Americans’ adventures in Chengdu and Dali (April 29th-May 5th). Maggie, a fellow Mary Knoller, and I met in the Chengdu airport. We wanted to make sure we were able to see the Pandas of Chengdu and the province of Yunnan, our students speak so much about, before we leave for the U.S. Our first day was travel logged. After a bus and cab we made it to the Hostel for pizza and a nap. Afterwards we immediately made plans to see the pandas the next day. Then it was onto the Irish pub for Egg rolls, Samosas, and Beer.

Day one of Chengdu was packed with Pandas, or at least the first few hours were. In the van on the way there we met Clara a student from Chongqing. She told me she goes to Southwest University (The university I would have taught at if I did not choose Mary Knoll. The same university MANY CSB/SJU alum teach at. I had to ask her). . . . “Who is your English teacher?” “JOHN MURRAY.” She responded (the all caps was my embellishment). “That is my friend,” I told her, “We studied in Ireland together!” Both Clara and I could not believe how small China became in that moment.

The pandas were more entertaining than I expected especially because I HELD ONE. I spent way too much money to do so but it was for a good cause. It was soft and cuddly and I half expected it to maul me. But really it was not heavy at all. The only down side was that we barely had a minute with it before it was the next person's turn.
[5/20/12 7:54:12 AM] Catherine: Maggie and I went on to try our first sichuan spicy food. Have to say that the spicy noodles--in no way-- prepared us for the food that was to come. Since Chengdu is a major city, 30 million people, we had to hit up Starbucks but not without a visit to Mao on the way. The people’s park was next-- a nice park but the best part was the singing geriatric participants in military-like aerobics performance in celebration, of course, of May day. The tibetan street was our next stop where we bought jewelry galore and were serenaded by three minorities playing traditional instruments. The day ended with some more shopping at Uni Qlo, H&M and the BEST mexican food I have had in China. What can I say?

Our last day in Chengdu was full of walking. We visited the catholic church where contemporary architecture met Chinese. All the while not realizing, until the end the whole the church, chapels and lodgings were structured to form a cross. Next was the SPICIEST FOOD EVER. We had to try the famous Sichuan Hot Pot. Due to a paper menu full of Chinese characters-- no pictures no PinYin-- and a lack of known chinese words for vegetables our waitress invited us to the kitchen and we choose what we wanted to eat. We liked the La but not the Ma. I have no idea what spice the Ma is but it makes your mouth numb.

As for this hot pot’s spiciness. . . . hmm well let’s just say it never stopped being spicy. We tried to walk off the spice and found the Art museum to be closed so we went on to the AiDao Nunnery. We were lost on the way but it was the best lost that could happen. We found a market of all things “ancient China.” I was determined to find a simple jade ring. I thought I found it but the man wanted 30 yuan for it! I did not want it that much. Then the fun began. He insisted on me buying it. All of the men around him selling other things became involved, semi surrounding us, causing a traffic jam with a woman who wanted to move her bike, all the while speaking to us as if we were fluent in Chinese. We slowly walked away and said thank you and good-bye. Then we remembered and went back to ask for directions to the nunnery. What a way to find where you are going.

Historical places, especially in China, can be disappointing. Tourists can build up too many expectations or when hidden falsities are found the illusion is shattered and meaning is lost. The nunnery did not do this. It was too full of life. Du Fu’s cottage however was basically a park where, possibly, a 8th century poet lived and gathered inspiration for his famous poetry. My glimmer of hope was the excavated and displayed ancient pillars of the former pagoda. Another stop at Peter’s Tex Mex for our last fix of western food and then it was on to DALI in the morning!

We got up at the butt-crack of dawn to make our flight to Dali. We arrived in Dali and were greeted with a breath of fresh air quite literally. Dali, maybe all of Yunnan Province, is where all the beauty of China is. Met our driver Li in Arrivals--he will be a constant in our Dali story. We made it to Five Elements, met Jeanine, So-so, and their two GOLDEN RETRIEVERS (who Maggie and I mauled). Groggy from sleep we dropped our bags and took a nap until So-so woke us up for lunch. Lunch was beautiful. Hopefully it will be similar to the one I will cook for my family when I return to MN. Full of flavor, greens form their organic garden and sauteed tofu.

Maggie and I wasted no time. Tie-dye factory that afternoon, lake tour the next day, and mountain climbing on Friday. Oh, the Tie-Dye factory. . . . Li was our driver again to a small village about 30 minutes away. He stopped and we were greeted by a tie dye shop. Oh no, this is not what we expected. We politely looked around for 10 minutes or so and then--thank god Maggie’s Chinese is much better than mine-- the woman showing us around took us to where they stitch, dye, dry and cut the tie-dye. Okay, now we will buy something. It was great to meet this tie-dye woman though. We got a picture with her and she was almost too shy to do so. We stuck around for 40 minutes or so-just talking. We learned her Grandmother, Mother, Her and her sister all work together.

Afterwards, we told Li, through broken chinese and pantomime, we wanted to walk around the little village. It was the China I expected. Hilariously he took us to another tie-dye store where we were attacked by a pushy saleswoman. Maggie caved in and bought one. My earring became caught on the scarf she put on me. While I tried to fix it Li and Maggie started to freak out and tell the woman, “No, no, hold on.” Apparently the woman was coming at me to help me out. The problem was that she was coming at my ear with a pair of rusty old scissors. Needless to say we left as fast as we could but not without making her take a picture with us.

We walked away laughing and told Li NO MORE TIE-DYE. “Okay, okay,” he said.  We tasted our first of the famous Bah-bah (the local bread of sweet or savory ingredients). Then we walked around the local market of beautiful produce and mysteriously disappearing bunnies. The night was made up of dumpling making at the Hostel where we met the third worker in our hostel Jessie. Then a walk around old Dali town. Since Dali is so beautiful there are many tourists who open business. One of the local businesses was the Bad Monkey Restaurant and Bar. It goes without saying we frequented it every night.

Thursday boasted a beautiful day that caused a little sun-burn, beautiful views of ErHai Lake and great new friends. The tour was Li driving us around the Lake. No boats were involved, to our surprise, but for good reason--to protect the lake no boats are allowed on the water unless it is fishing season. More markets we experienced as well as many little villages. The best was a local restaurant Li took us to. We had chicken and vegetables, sauteed peas and green beans, flowers cooked with eggs and Yunnan CHEESE. Another nap, shopping, and dinner at the Bad Monkey closed off the night.

Friday-another beautiful day. The climate in Dali is a lot like Colorado. We began to climb the mountain after a touristy, but necessary, chairlift ride to the start. Hiking in China is always paved and set so we diverted whenever possible and climbed rocks, I put my feet into the streams and picked up all the trash I could. It was a difficult climb at times but it was pure bliss. After an awkward chair lift down-- a Chinese couple were fighting which resulted in Maggie and I awkwardly trying to keep up a load conversation so we did not have to listen to the girlfriend sniffling.

Our vacation was almost over, then. . . . the Bad Monkey happened. We spent the night with micro-brews, dancing, French guys, Chinese girls, a man who claimed he was, “the worst man you will ever meet, but I am the happiest.” Maggie and I tried to feel him out and he turned into one of those harmless characters you meet in a bar. He told us the same story at least four times and bought us plenty of beer. I have to admit though he did get everyone up in the bar to dance. It felt great to stay up until three. Especially when it was because of good beer, good conversation, dancing and music. The only problem was the flight the next day. I returned to Jiangmen happy to have more colorful memories. However it was learned: NEVER travel by plane while hungover.